Living in Medellín With a Toddler: What We Learned After One Month
- Anca
- 11 minutes ago
- 11 min read
Finding Our Rhythm in the City of Eternal Spring
Medellín looked unreal from our balcony, a city of skyscrapers and palm trees tucked into a green valley that seemed to breathe with the clouds. It was the kind of view that stopped me mid-sip of coffee every single morning.
The beginning felt a little messy, as new places often do. It wasn’t as chaotic as our start in Panama, but it was still full of small hurdles: learning which grocery store actually had what we needed, figuring out prices in pesos, and finding our rhythm again.
Everywhere we went, locals would smile and say, “Tranquila, no te preocupes.” Don’t worry. Relax. It’s a phrase you hear constantly in Colombia, like a cultural reminder to exhale. By the end of our stay, no one said it to me anymore. Maybe because I finally didn’t need to hear it.
Somewhere between playground chats, morning coffees, and Emily’s new Spanish phrases such as “hola,” “hasta luego,” and “quieres jugar,” we found our pace. Medellín wasn’t just another stop. It became the place where we finally started to slow down.
Where We Stayed: Why El Poblado Isn’t for Families (And What We’d Choose Instead)
If you’ve ever Googled where to stay in Medellín, you’ve probably seen El Poblado at the top of every list. It’s easy to understand why. It’s green, modern, full of cafés and restaurants, and feels surprisingly safe for a big Latin American city.
But after a month here with a toddler, I can say this honestly: El Poblado isn’t built for families.
The hills are steep, the kind that make every grocery haul feel like leg day, and the stroller quickly became our least favorite travel companion. We eventually gave in to Rappi, the local delivery app. When it worked, it was a lifesaver. When it didn’t, it was a masterclass in patience.
After dark, the vibe shifted fast. Music, crowds, nightlife. Not unsafe, but definitely not toddler territory. We relied on Ubers and kept our exploring to daylight hours.
Every time we visited Laureles, Envigado, or Sabaneta, we felt a little neighborhood envy. They were flatter, greener, and full of playgrounds and families; the kind of areas made for slow walks and early bedtimes. If we return to Medellín, that’s where we’ll stay.
If You Go (with kids):
Stay: Laureles, Envigado, or Sabaneta for flatter streets and nearby parks.
Get around: Ubers are affordable and safe for families.
Groceries: Use Rappi, but expect a few glitches.
Playgrounds: Parque La Presidenta is central and toddler-friendly.
Daily Life in Medellín: Coffee, Chaos, and Connection
Once we found our rhythm, the city began to soften around us.
Mornings started with coffee on the balcony, sunlight spilling across rooftops, and Emily climbing into our laps to watch buses weave through traffic below. The smell of fresh arepas and fried empanadas drifted up from the street vendors, and the city felt alive but never rushed.
We spent our days moving between errands and small adventures: groceries, laundry, playgrounds. Our favorite spot quickly became Parque La Presidenta, a shaded park with a creek, a small playground, and a café close enough for a second coffee while Emily played.
There was always a hum of motorcycles somewhere in the background and a trace of roasted corn in the air. People here are kind in quiet ways. One afternoon, a mom handed Emily a shiny red apple without a word. Other parents shared toys or sand buckets like it was nothing. It wasn’t over-the-top warmth, just simple courtesy that made daily life smoother.
Speaking Spanish helped me connect, not just to communicate but to really understand the humor, the rhythm, and the ease people live with here. It’s those small conversations, not the big attractions, that made Medellín feel familiar.
Parenting in Colombia: Patience, Warmth, and a Shared Apple
Parenting here felt different, calmer somehow. There’s an unspoken patience woven into daily life, a kind of trust that kids will figure things out if you just let them.
At the playground, parents chatted while their kids ran freely. There was less hovering and more watching from a distance. It reminded me to loosen my own grip, to let Emily explore, to let her climb, to stop narrating every move.
Music seemed to follow us everywhere, spilling from café speakers and open windows, softening the edges of every small chaos.
Of course, I still stayed cautious after dark; that instinct never goes away. But within the daylight hours, between the parks and the cafés, I found a rhythm that felt steady and real. Medellín reminded me that motherhood abroad doesn’t have to be about managing everything perfectly. It’s about letting go enough to actually live it.
Is Medellín Safe for Families? Our Honest Experience
Safety was the question I heard most before coming to Medellín, and it was the one I asked myself too. The city’s past still lingers in people’s minds, but what we found on the ground felt very different from the headlines.
During the day, Medellín felt vibrant and welcoming. We walked to cafés, parks, and grocery stores without issues, often greeted with warm smiles or small conversations in Spanish. Locals were protective toward families and especially kind to kids.
Even so, there were moments that reminded me to stay aware. After dark, El Poblado changed character; the music got louder, the streets busier, and the atmosphere less family-oriented. We made it a rule to take Ubers in the evening instead of walking, kept our phones tucked away on busy streets, and avoided flashy jewelry or expensive gear.
We also learned a few simple habits that made a big difference:
Use registered rideshare apps (we used Uber) instead of hailing taxis.
Carry only what you need. A small crossbody bag or fanny pack felt safest.
Trust your instincts. If a place feels off, it’s okay to move on. We’ve done that!
Stick to family-friendly areas like Laureles, Envigado, or Sabaneta if you want a calmer base.
By the end of our stay, I realized safety in Medellín isn’t about fear, it’s about awareness. Once we settled into our routine, I felt far more comfortable walking around with Emily, and enjoying the daily rhythm of life here.
If anything, Colombia reminded me that caution and curiosity can coexist, and that feeling safe often comes from moving slower, paying attention, and staying present.
The Routine That Finally Worked
By week two, we’d found our groove.
Emily woke around six. Mornings were slow: breakfast, balcony views, and coffee before Andrew logged in to work at seven. Lunch at noon, nap at one, then her favorite part of the day, babysitter time.
It was our first experience having daily help, and it changed everything. Emily adored her babysitter. They painted, built towers, sang songs, and gave me a few precious hours to write, rest, or simply be quiet. After three daycare attempts that hadn’t worked out, this felt like a win for all of us.
Evenings were predictable in the best way, dinner around six and bedtime by eight. The only hiccup was Emily’s lingering stomach pain from Panama, which flared during our day trip to El Peñol and Guatapé. The winding bus ride left both of us queasy. We spent the next week keeping meals simple and avoiding fried food, and she bounced back fast.
Traveling with a toddler has a way of teaching flexibility whether you ask for it or not. The schedule matters until it doesn’t. Some nights you trade the perfect bedtime for a late dinner and laughter, and that’s okay.
Family Favorites and Toddler Wins
Some places stood out more than others.
We returned to Parque Explora twice because Emily loved it; a mix of science museum, aquarium, and outdoor play zones that kept her happily busy for hours (a miracle if you know toddlers).
The Medellín Zoo was another pleasant surprise, calm, shaded, and easy to walk through at a toddler pace.
And then there was Santa Fe Mall, our go-to for fun, not just on rainy days but whenever we needed a break from the hills. The giant octopus playground and trampoline park became a weekly ritual.
Our bigger outings were a mix. The coffee plantation tour was more interesting than we expected, even with Emily in tow. The El Peñol and Guatapé day trip was beautiful but long, winding, and exhausting. We were all sick by the time we returned but still glad we went.
And then there were the smaller wins: Emily throwing rocks into a river, chasing pigeons through plazas, and giggling at a musician in the park. The little things you don’t plan but remember most.
More of Our Favorite Places Around Medellín
A month is never enough to see it all, but these are the places that made everyday life in Medellín a little more fun, easier, or just plain beautiful.
Coffee Tour at Finca La Arinconada
We loved getting a glimpse of Colombia’s coffee culture up close at Finca La Arinconada. It was surprisingly hands-on and family-friendly, with Emily tasting cacao nibs and helping stir coffee beans while we learned about the process from bean to cup. The setting was peaceful, surrounded by green hills and the earthy smell of roasting beans, and it gave us a new appreciation for every cup we’ve had since.
Parque Explora
We returned here twice because Emily loved it. Part science museum, part aquarium, and part outdoor play space, it’s one of Medellín’s most creative places for kids to explore. Every corner sparked curiosity, from the fish tanks to the outdoor exhibits.
Medellín Zoo
A calm and surprisingly green space that felt just right for a toddler’s pace. The paths are shaded, the animals are easy to spot, and it makes for a simple half-day outing.
El Castillo Museo & Jardín
The gardens around El Castillo are stunning and well worth the visit. The inside, though beautiful, felt a bit too formal for toddlers. The staff were strict about touching, stepping on carpets, and even photography. Still, the manicured lawns and flower-lined paths outside made it worth the trip, especially on a sunny morning.
Parque de la Bailarina
A small neighborhood park with a playground and lots of greenery. It was completely empty when we visited, but it’s a peaceful place for a quiet play break if you are nearby.
El Bosque at Oviedo Mall
This creative space inside Oviedo Mall became one of Emily’s favorite spots. It’s full of sensory and hands-on activities designed for kids, from art projects to simple experiments. Emily made her own slime from scratch there, and it’s also where we spent Halloween celebrating with friends. There’s even a small playground right outside the door, which makes it easy to move from crafts to climbing without leaving the area.
Xtreme Zone Medellín
This trampoline park inside Santa Fe Mall became one of our favorite weekday rituals. They open at 11 a.m., and most days we had the entire place to ourselves. It was the perfect way to let Emily burn off her energy while we sipped a coffee nearby.
Telemedellín Park
A wonderful local park with a playground, open green space, and a friendly community vibe. We only visited in the mornings, but locals told us that evenings, especially weekends, bring food stalls, music, and lots of families. Bonus points for clean bathrooms and shade.
Santa Fe Mall & El Tesoro Mall
Santa Fe Mall quickly became our rainy-day spot thanks to its temporary giant octopus playground with slides and a ball pit. El Tesoro, another upscale mall, has mini theme-park attractions inside and an outdoor terrace with rides. Both malls are surprisingly family-oriented and easy places to spend a few hours.
Gabo Restaurant
This was one of the most toddler-friendly restaurants we found in Medellín. As soon as we sat down, they handed Emily a ceramic dog and paints to keep her entertained through the entire meal. The food was great, but the thoughtfulness was what stood out.
Pueblito Paisa
A lively weekend spot that recreates a traditional Colombian village. There’s an adjacent hike with city views, but skip the stroller unless you want to carry it the whole way, like we did. The atmosphere was festive but manageable for families.
Parques del Río
Full of families celebrating birthdays well into the evening, this riverside park felt surprisingly safe even after dark. It’s a place where Medellín comes alive with kids running, parents chatting, and music in the background.
Sabaneta
Perfect for a slow Sunday morning. We grabbed coffee and local pastries while families gathered outside the church to listen to the ceremony. It felt peaceful, authentic, and full of heart.
El Peñol and Guatapé
We took a day trip to El Peñol, a massive granite rock that towers above a sparkling lake, and the nearby town of Guatapé, known for its colorful houses and hand-painted walls. Both were beautiful and absolutely worth seeing, but the day itself was long, fast-paced, and exhausting. The winding mountain bus ride made both Emily and me carsick, and by the time we arrived, we were already running on empty.
Guatapé was as lively as it was lovely, full of color, cobblestones, and energy, but it was also packed with tourists. If we were to do it again, we’d skip the organized tour altogether and visit on a weekday, staying at least one night to enjoy it slowly at our own pace. Beautiful places deserve more time, especially when traveling with a toddler.
En Algún Lugar de Este Maravilloso Mundo
A mouthful of a name, but an unforgettable spot. This park reminded us of California with open skies, wide walking paths, and a sense of space that makes you want to stay awhile. A beautiful place for families to unwind.
Plaza Botero and Museo de Antioquia
We wanted to see Fernando Botero’s sculptures in person, so we made our way to Plaza Botero and the Museo de Antioquia downtown. The museum itself is impressive and beautifully curated, with plenty of Botero’s art and other Colombian works that give real insight into the country’s culture. But outside, the atmosphere was uncomfortable. The area felt unsafe even during the day, and several locals warned us not to linger or take out our phones. By night, it’s not a place we would return to.
If you do visit, go in the morning, take an Uber directly there and back, and keep your belongings tucked away. The art is absolutely worth seeing, but the surrounding neighborhood reminded us that not all parts of Medellín feel as safe or family-friendly as others.
What This Month Taught Us About Slow Family Travel
Colombia reminded me that slow travel isn’t about doing less. It’s about noticing more.
It’s knowing which fruit stand has the sweetest mangos, which park becomes “your park,” which coffee shop knows your order. It’s watching your child adapt faster than you do and realizing you can learn from her pace.
Traveling with a toddler has a way of showing you who you are. You start out trying to manage every detail, then realize most of what matters happens in between the plans: the naps, the giggles, the moments you finally stop rushing. Maybe slow travel isn’t just about geography. Maybe it’s a form of motherhood that moves at the pace of presence.
I came to Medellín still carrying some of the tension from leaving home, juggling motherhood, work, and travel. I’m leaving softer and more present.
If there’s one phrase I’ll carry forward, it’s the one I heard everywhere that first week: “Tranquila, no te preocupes.” Don’t worry. Relax. Somewhere between the steep hills and the slow mornings, I finally started to believe them.
Because the real adventure isn’t moving fast. It’s learning how to stay.
What We’d Do Differently Next Time
Every place teaches you something, and Medellín taught us plenty. If we returned, we’d make a few small changes that would make a big difference.
Stay in a flatter neighborhood. The views in El Poblado were incredible, but the hills were exhausting. Next time we’d base ourselves in Laureles or Envigado, where daily life with a stroller feels more like a walk, not a workout.
Steer clear of greasy food, even when it’s traditional. As tempting as bandeja paisa or empanadas are, too much fried food left all of us feeling off. Cooking simple meals at home kept our energy steady and made Emily feel better too.
Skip packed day tours. Guatapé was stunning, but the long, winding bus ride was tough on all of us. We learned that adventure doesn’t always mean distance. Sometimes the best memories come from staying close and exploring slower.
Give ourselves time to arrive. Instead of rushing into sightseeing or routines, we’d take the first few days to settle in, find our rhythm, and breathe. The slower we adjusted, the more connected we felt.
3 Lessons We’re Taking to Uruguay
Flexibility beats perfection. Routines help, but adaptability keeps you sane.
The world is kind when you slow down enough to see it.
Traveling light isn’t just about luggage. It’s about energy.
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Follow along at Sloth Mode Travel as we take these lessons south and find our next version of calm.
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